Lunch in Magnolia

Cheese ravioli in Marsala mushroom cream at Mondello, Magnolia’s hidden gem, as good as you’ll find anywhere in town. The wine is a surprisingly refreshing Sicilian white blend of insolia and viognier from a producer in Catania called Nicosia.

Just don’t forget to book a table, since it’s so small. On OpenTable, probably better than calling; like many mom & pop places, you can’t be sure there’s an English-speaker around to answer the phone, and the answering system is iffy. But OT shows up on a computer screen at the front, hard to miss. (Those ancient crabby reviews? Harrumph! That was before Mamma Enza returned to take charge of the kitchen.)

Only 30 seats total, so even mid-week it’s full-full-full for dinner. (Yet they’re usually done, lights out, door locked, by 9 or 9:30, this being early-to-bed Magnolia.) On the other hand, lunch is a dream, daily Tuesday through Saturday.